Los Toros

We had mid terms yesterday. I cannot believe we are half way through our time in Madrid. I think they went well, but we will see on Monday. We also finished watching Volver in culture class. The movie was really neat to watch. It was in Spanish, with Spanish subtitles. It was very difficult trying to read the subtitles fast enough. Still, I understood the gist of the movie, as we have to write a summary of it for Monday. There are several stories within stories and it is a bit strange, but I definitely enjoyed it. After class I ate lunch in Retiro with a few of my friends and enjoyed the shade on a beautiful day. We also went and explored the rose garden. I think I have written about it before but oh my goodness it truly is one of the most beautiful gardens I have ever seen. Start saving your money, because my wedding will probably be in Spain (don’t worry, you’ve got a while, haha). After lunch I came back to the house for a beautiful siesta, and then, headed to La Plaza de Toros for the bullfight. I have been nervous about the bullfight for a week or so, knowing that I’m not a huge fan of the concept but wanting to experience such a huge part of Spain’s culture. It was extremely hot yesterday, so most of the girls did as the Spaniards do and bought our abanicos (fans) to get us through. Probably the best decision of the night. (Why don’t we use fans in the US? They are so practical and REALLY fun). Anyways, onto the bullfight. There were thousands of people crowding into the arena, and people selling little seat cushions. We made our way all the way to the top in the nose bleed section to claim our seats. As I think about describing the match, it will be a bit graphic so if you don't know that much about the fights, get ready. The stadium is huge and a combination of medieval structure with some new editions. The building is really beautiful. In the center of it all is a huge ring. The matadors all walked out to greet the crowd and the evening began. There are six rounds (six bulls). It was a bit confusing for me and I wish I had researched a little more about it before going, but I will try to explain what I know. The first bull that came out was actually a light brown one, and the rest were all black. First a man comes out showing the weight of the bull (ranging from about 530 to the larges last night, 695). First the matadors all take turns getting the bull to come to them. In this stage they actually use pink capes with yellow backs and they wear the typical black hats. After they all tease the bull for a while, they bring out these men on horses. This part was awful to watch, as the bull would often go up to the horses, raming them with it’s horns, almost flipping them over. I felt a bit better after finding out that the horses have bullet proof vests on, made to protect them, but still, the bull would get very aggressive during this stage. Then the men on top of the horses would use a long spear to make the bulls get away from the horse (I just winced thinking about it). After this round, the matadors try to get two of the shorter sticks into the bull. In some rounds the “beginning” matadors would do this, while in other rounds, the main matador would do this step as well. After the bull was weakened by six of these shorter sticks, the main matador came out with his red cape. He would then demonstrate his craft. They get points for not moving, how close they can get the bull to them, and whether or not they can get the sword in behind the bulls neck the first time or not. This happened only once. When the bull passes the cape, everyone yells “Olé!” clapping when the matador allows the bull to get very close. At this point you are not supposed to move (though there were many people moving) as it can distract the bull and be dangerous for the matador. Finally, the matador sticks the sword in the bull. If he is successful the first time, that is usually it, however, if he misses or it does not go in deep enough, he continues until he is successful. Finally, when the bull lays down and cannot get up the round is over. Someone then comes out and sticks a dagger in the bull behind it’s head, ending its’ life. I think it actually makes it worse writing about it right now. If the matador performs well, he has the chance to receive an ear of the bull as a “prize.” If the crowd feels this should happen, the crowd waves white hankies, however, he will only receive this if the judge throws his white flag as well. This happened only once yesterday. Also, one bull was sent away because it had a bad foot. They did not feel it was suitable to fight. Apparently it is an honor for a farm to have one of their bulls chosen for a fight, and a disgrace for one to be sent away (this may also have something to do with the fact that the meat is used afterwards as well. Tail of the toro is eaten frequently here). The bull fright was hard to watch for me, clearly, and some parts I did not watch at all. I do not agree at all with the agonizing death of the bull for sport. However, I did feel like I was transported to medieval Spain, with the plaza and traditional costumes. One of my friends told me that the man sitting next to her told her it started because when a man graduated, or got married (something significant) he had to kill a bull. This fighting used to take place in the streets. May of the steps of the fight evolved from that. I do not completely understand this tradition and the concept behind it, and it is very controversial in Spain as well but I am glad that I went for the experience to witness such a large part of Spain’s history and culture. I'm sure there are plenty of things in American culture that are horrific to Spaniards. If there is one thing I am learning as I get older, it is that my way is not always right. Still, it will most likely be my only bullfight. The princess of Spain was actually in attendance at the fight yesterday and we saw her from across the ring, so that was neat. Before we came to Madrid, there was actually an incident at a fight where a matador got too close to the bull and the horn of the bull went in the matador through the neck and came out behind his head. He just got released form the hospital. The fights are very dangerous, and one of the matadors got hit a little bit last night. The art of the matadors in how close they can get the bull to them is one aspect of the fight that is quite impressive to watch. One even wove the flack back and forth behind his back. Crazy. Anyways, enough about the bull fight, afterwards, we all went together to La Casa Mingo again and enjoyed the pollo asado and cider. I made the suggestion and I’m so glad everyone was pleased with the restaurant. It was just as good the second time! After dinner, a few of us met up with the guys we had met through the church. They took us all to a park where we just hung out and talked for a while. There were a lot of people in the park at night, honestly in their own little circles just drinking, having their own little parties. They said that there are usually a lot of people in the parks at night all over Madrid. We stayed with them until we needed to catch the Metro. I headed back home to get some rest for our big day in Toledo! I’m on the bus right now and I cannot wait!